THE VIEWS FROM TEHRAN

By Akhmad Kusaeni

As a journalist, I was invited by the Iranian Ambassador Shaban Shahidi Moaddab to visit Tehran on the eve of anniversary of the 1979 Islamic revolution on 5-12 February 2005. Twenty-six years ago this month, an Islamic government replaced a pro-U.S. dynasty in Iran. In the process, Iran declared America its No.1 enemy and the United States denounced Iran as “Axis of Evil” together with Iraq and North Korea.
Just a few weeks ago, Washington has hinted at military action against Tehran, accusing the Islamic Republic of Iran of seeking to develop nuclear weapons. The U.S. President George W. Bush said on State Union Address that a nuclear-armed Iran would be “a very destabilizing force” and urged the West to work together to stop this happening. The Vice President Dick Cheney confirmed that Iran is the number one priority country to be battled in the next four year.
“If you look for a great story, this is the right time to come to Iran,” Shaban Shahidi Moaddab, the soft-spoken Iranian ambassador told me before I flied to Tehran. “Talk to our people on the streets, how they feel about the recent hostile situation with the U.S.”
So, during my a-week-stay in Iran, I talked not only to people on the streets, but also to several Iranian journalists and officials. I asked them on how ready are they to respond to the likely U.S. military attack. To my surprise, no one seems to take the U.S. threat seriously.
They respond to the hostile situation as business as usual. Nobody seems to care. Live is going on without interruption. People have no fear. They consider the U.S. attack as a joke. I have to admit that Iranian has a great sense of humor, even in the time of crisis.
“Let’s have a lunch before the U.S. attack us,” said Saeed Kousha, our interpreter, before we entered a Chinese restaurant at the downtown of Tehran. Of course, we burst into laughter. It was the funniest joke I have ever heard in Iran so far.
“We think it (the U.S. military strikes) will never happens. Unless, Bush is stupid enough,” he added and we laugh again.
“They have been threaten to launch a military strike for 26 years, but nothing happens until now. They would not dare to attack us. We kicked them out with humiliation in 1979. They will never come again to this land,” Kousha convinces himself.

Bring back memories
But, President Bush’s inaugural speech, which included his promise to end tyranny around the world, brought back memories for many Iranians. Those recollections include a coup d’etat in 1953 that led to a distrust of America that linger today.
“I always remember how America helped overthrow the democratically elected government of Mohammad Mossadegh in 1953 and reinstalled the Shah Reza Pahlevi. I also remember how Iranians rejoiced the Shah’s downfall and the end of America domination here in 1979,” said Hussein Shariatmadari, President Kayhan Gropup of Newspapers and Publications.
Before becoming a media giant just like Jacob Oetama in Indonesia, Hussein was political prisoner under Shah regime. Savak, intelligent apparatus, had tortured him very badly. The Savak took all his teeth and nails during interrogation. Thank to the Islamic Revolution, Hussein was released after the downfall of Shah Reza Pahlevi.
“A quarter century ago, only Iran dared enough to said, “America is the Great Satan”. Now, even in the United States itself, Americans dare to call their leader as “Bush is the Great Satan”,” he added.
Hussein confirmed that America is the Iranian most hated country. Everywhere we go, we can easily find the hate words printed in the walls of buildings or gravity in the streets. An apartment at Mohammad Ali Jinnah Street painted with the big American flag, but they changed the stars and stripes with the picture of the skulls and bombs.
You may read anti-American posters hang in a branch of tree or traffic lights. The most popular slogan on these posters is “Marghbar Amrica!” or “Down with the USA!”.
In the 2001, the Iranian government renovated the U.S. embassy in Tehran. The idea was to turn it into the museum for revolution. The former of U.S. embassy at Talaghani Street is now full of gravity like “We will make America face severe defeat!” or “We will make the U.S. under our feet!”.
There is also a giant poster with picture of the late Imam Ayatollah Rohulah Khomeini and his famous fatwa during Islamic Revolution, “I strongly believe that Islam will forge down the superpowers on the dust of misery”.

Still strong
This kind of confidence is still strong in the heart and mind Iranian people. They have been succeeding in kicking out the invaders in the past, and so in the future. Hundred years ago, Iranian writer Ferdowsi in his legendary book “Shahnameh” (Story of Kings) described how Iranian Kings was able to push back the foreign aggressors.
“As the history show us, the Iranian people would rather die than live under foreign invaders,” said Hoveyda, a tourist guide, when I pay a visit to Ferdowsi’s tomb in Mashad province.
Deputy Foreign Minister Mohsen Aminzadegh told me that during eight years Iraq-Iran war in 1980s, Iranian fight bravely to defense the country and finally able to throw away Iraqis aggressor.
“These threat you hear nowadays are just part of the psychological war,” Aminzadegh told me in an interview at his office. “But, if American launches a military strike, Iranian would fight until the last man standing.”
“If God is on your side, the enemy’s weapon can become an instrument of its own destruction,” wrote Iranian columnist, Nawab Khan, in Iran Daily on 7 February 2005.
In “Remember David and Goliath”, Khan wrote that it is God who granted victory to David against Goliath, to Moses against Pharaoh, to Prophet Muhammad against infidels like Abu Lahab. Pure faith and belief will bring God’s reward and protection.
“Through unity of the world, Muslims will be able to neutralize the arrogant plots,” the supreme leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei as quoted in the wall of building.
President Mohammad Khatami, in a fiery speech to tens of thousands crowd in Azadi Square on 10 February 2005, said, “The Iranian nation does not seek war, does not seek violence and dispute. But the world must know that this nation will not tolerate any invasion,”
“The whole Iranian nation is united against any threat or attack. If the invaders reach Iran, the country will turn into a burning hell for them,” he added, as the crowd, braving heavy snow, chanted “Death to America!” and “Death to Israel”.
Most of Iranian leaders have spoken that Iran would not back down in the face of U.S. threat. They turn up the heat of its rhetoric in the wake of escalating war of words between Iran and the U.S.
“The Gulf is not a region where they can have fireworks and Iran is not a country where they can come for an adventure,” cleric and former president Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani told worshipers at a Friday prayers at a mosque in Tehran.
Rafsanjani is often hailed by analysts as a pragmatist who wants to restore diplomatic relations with the United States. However, American threat to attack Iran is a subject that unites politicians across the conservative and reformist camps.
After I returned to Jakarta, some friends asked me whether or not the U.S.-Iran war would happen. My answer to this question is 50-50.
Yes, there is a 50-50 chance of an air strike. This not because of deliberate policy in the Pentagon or Iran, but the tensions, the sensitivities, the paranoia are so high that the potential for slip sliding into something is very high.
Nobody sees military action as the best way to tame Iran’s suspected nuclear weapon ambitions, but as the rhetoric heats up, mutual miscalculation could suck Washington and Tehran into an unpredictable showdown.
I am not here to defend Iran from the U.S. accusation, because my point in writing this column is to present views from Tehran. My job as journalist is to tell truth as I see it during my short visit to Iran. All the anti-American slogans and rhetoric presenting here are not mine. Those are Iranians. They were distrustful of America.
I, myself, had been in the United States for several years. I know personally what’s so great about America. For that, I gave my America-born child named “JFK”, one of the best U.S. Presidents in the history. I cherish “American dream” and share the ideal of democracy and freedom.
But, in my opinion, military action is not an option. It is technically possible for the United States, either with the Israelis or on their own, but it is not wise.
For Iranian people, I have a suggestion: don’t fight fire with fire, use water. A diplomatic resolution of the differences between Iran and America is best.***
(Akhmad Kusaeni is a senior journalist and columnist)

Caption photos:
Anti-American slogans can be seen at any place in Iran.
These pictures were taken around former the United States Embassy at Talaghani Street, Tehran, on 10 February 2005.